DanL skrev:
2234128 Vad ska man ha för lufttryck o stötdämpar inställningar om man vill testa sin sporthoj på strippen?
Gärna andra tips hur man kommer iväg bra, sittställningar m.m !
Allt detta förutsätter att du kör utan stödhjul och original hjulbas.
Mjuk bakdämpare och snabb rebound. 1-1/2 kg däcktryck som utgångsläge.
Dale Walker är nog en av personerna som du ska lyssna mest på när det gäller att starta snabbt med en gathoj. Nedanstående snott från
http://members.shaw.ca/bjs1/personal_tips.htm
Basic Drag Racing Technique: I have a Bandit 1200 so of course I've dabbled with drag racing! I quickly discovered it's not so easy to do well! Luckily 4 time National Drag Racing Champion Dale Walker of Holeshot Performance Products fame (
http://www.holeshot.com/ ) decided one day to teach us Bandit types how to do it properly. Since Dale knows tons about this and I know next to nothing, I've included his treatise rather than do my own. It's focused on the Bandit 1200 but the principles are generally applicable. If you want more, Dale sells a video explaining all this too.
Date: 5 Nov 1998 23:01:46 -0400 Subject: Drag Racing Techniques by Dale Walker
RIDING THE 1/4 MILE
Hi Everyone,
A handful of people have asked me to post some drag racing riding techniques on the list. I appreciate all of you, having faith in my products and efforts. This is my way of contributing to everyone on this list. I guess I should blab off a little for some Bandit owners that don't know my drag racing background. I don't really like to brag but here goes. I started drag racing motorcycles in 1975 when I was 18 years old. I'm a 4 time National Drag Racing champion. In production, Modified, Pro Street and Top Fuel. I've also set over 50 National ET's and MPH records in my hay day. In the late 80's, I opened a Drag Racing School at Baylands Raceway in Fremont, California. It was semi sponsored by Kawasaki. It was featured on tv and in most of the magazines. Then 3 years later, the track closed. I really enjoyed the school and would love to do it again someday. In fact, it might happen in 1999. There's a guy that made his own 1/8 mile on his private land 30 minutes from me. I'm talking to him now. Ok, on with the ins and outs of the 1/4 mile.
First of all, these are my personal techniques that I have found work the best on most stock production bikes.
TIPS
If you are going to run your Bandit 12 with the stock swing arm and all of you just go out to the track on the weekends, this is a must.
1. Loosen the triple clamps and slide the forks up as far as possible without touching the bars. Turn in the pre load adjusters all the way in flush with the fork caps.
2. Use 3/8" all thread and make a rod the proper length through the front axle. Add barbell weights on each side at least 10 total pounds. You will have to space one side out from the fork leg. Use 3/8" fender washers and nylock nuts. You may want to make two threaded axles one slightly longer to hold more. I ran 14 lbs to a 1.63 60 footer with the stock rear ride height and only 1" longer wheel base which was equal to the axle being pulled all the way back in the stock swing arm slots.
3. If you cut and install a new chain, you can pull the wheel back almost to the max in the stock arm.
4. Set the rear shock on the softest preload and rebound. The softest spring preload is the most important.
5. If you get hooked on this stuff and get more serious, you may want a 3" to 6" longer swing arm, strap the front end down and lower the back end as well. Larry has a set of ride height adjusters to lower the back end. I may come out with some in the future that are adjustable for street riders to play?
6. You may want to run a set of Barnett clutch springs or at least one Barnett and one stock. I also stay away from synthetics and personally run Kendall 20W-50 motorcycle petroleum. Say what you want, but clutches slip more with synthetic oils. If you get serious, Anders, Larry or Brad can give you more insight on clutch modifications. Again, if you don't overslip the clutch and use my technique, I'm sure you will find one or two Barnett clutch springs to be fine. I now stock them.
7. You also may want to play with the gearing a bit and drop to a 14 tooth cls sprocket. Unless you are very serious, the stock gearing is fine. You will only use a little of the 5th gear but it actually calms it down a bit off the line and the motor has no problem pulling it.
I BREAK THE 1/4 DOWN INTO STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS. IT'S EASIER TO UNDER- STAND THIS WAY AND IF YOU HAVE A PROBLEM AREA, YOU CAN GO BACK TO MY INSTRUCTIONS AS A REFERENCE.
1. THE BURNOUT
Back into the water box, never drive through it getting the front tire wet. Back in a couple of feet. Then pull forward with the tire just to the edge of dry pavement still in the water. Put your bike in 2nd gear with both feet flat on the pavement. Take a little of your weight off the seat. Clamp down the front brake. Bring the revs up to about 5000 to 6000 RPMS and drop the clutch. Be sure to snap out the clutch and not slide it out. This will break the tire loose much easier and won't smoke your clutch. As soon as the clutch is out, apply more throttle then an even RPM say 8000 or so. There's no need to over rev it or beat it. If you look down at the tank, you will see the smoke by your legs. This is long enough. Let off the front brake and roll forward a couple of feet, then pull in the clutch and get out of the throttle.
GOT ALL THAT!
NOTE: If you have a sticky track, you may find the burnout not even necessary. The Bandit's short wheel base really helps hook up. I ran 10.30's without any burnout at all. This will really depend on track conditions.
2. CLEANING THE TIRE OR DRY HOP
This step is really to check the hook up prior to you staging the bike. Again, if your tracks good, don't bother. It isn't exactly easy on the drive train. Line your bike up about 5 feet from where you want to launch from usually a couple of feet from the centerline. It's the stickiest there. Have your bike in first gear with your right foot resting on the peg and brake pedal. Take the play out of the drive train with the clutch. Lean forward slightly keeping your arms bent and rigid. Bring the RPMS to around 6500 and snap the clutch out quickly. Apply enough throttle to spin the tire one short and quick chop. Let off the throttle and pull in the clutch at the same time then quickly apply the rear brake and stop.
KINDA COMPLICATED, HUH? I THOUGHT THIS DRAG RACING STUFF WAS JUST GOING IN A STRAIGHT LINE. I'VE HEARD THIS MY WHOLE LIFE...
3. BODY POSITION AND STAGING
This phase is where good riding style and concentration separate the men from the boys. Mostly it accounts for a much harder controlled launch.
Recheck that your bike is still lined up with the spot you already picked out in your mind to launch from. Roll within 4 feet from the pre-stage beam then get into the proper lean forward body position. Legs back and even, chin and shoulders down and forward, and arms slightly bent and rigid. Take the play out of the drive train with the clutch. Creep forward slowly. Just before pre-stage, start bringing up the RPM's very slowly. Light the pre-stage beam. Creeping into the lights should be done by the slight push of your toes not the clutch; just have the play out of the drive train with the clutch at this point. Do not worry about your competition: run your own lane putting him out of your mind. Once the pre-stage beam is on, bring the RPM's up to proper range which on the Bandit 1200 will be around 3500 to 5000 RPMS depending on the added weight on the front end, chassis set up and how good you are. Start at 3500 RPM. NOTE: Hold the throttle even at this point and never blip it up or down.
IT'S NOT GETTING ANY EASIER!
4. LAUNCHING WITHOUT A WHEELIE BAR
The Bandit makes so much torque there's no need to over slip the clutch. My technique will make the clutch live longer and be consistent. When the amber light comes on, immediately slide the clutch aggressively. Use two fingers on the clutch and two on the grip. Load the motor fairly hard with the clutch without dumping it. This takes practice and finesse, BE SMOOTH. When you hear the motor pulling down, start applying smooth throttle at the same time you let the clutch fully engage. I SAID SMOOTH THROTTLE, DON'T WHACK IT OPEN unless you want to see John Glenn. Keep feeding the throttle keeping your body and arms leaned forward and stiff. The wheel is lifting by now but you've shot the bike forward already quite a ways out from the starting beams for a good 60 foot time. Short shift to second gear. Don't bother with watching the tach, stay focused on feeling front wheel lift and holding your body position. With a few runs, you will find your sweet spot on the launching RPM and just when to hit 2nd gear before it comes up to high in 1st. With a stock length chassis I would add enough weight to the front end so once in 2nd gear you can smoothly pin the throttle. REMEMBER, I SAID SMOOTHLY! By being able to keep the throttle pinned in 2nd your ET with drop up to a full tenth or more.
THAT WAS A TOUGHIE!
5. SHIFTING, TUCKING AND HAULING BUTT
Once you've put the hammer down in second, it's time to tuck in tight, you know, get under the paint I call it. Now it's time to watch the tach. If you have a stock motor with a pipe. I suggest 9400 to 9600 RPM as your shift point. The Suzuki trans is so good that full throttle power shifts are possible. At full throttle simply fan the clutch just enough to complete the next shift. Don't pull the clutch in too far causing the motor to rev. This also wastes time and is harder on clutch plates and the basket. I got to get in a plug here, I guess. You may want to install my PowerShifter2 or my new full push button unit. Then you can shift at wide open throttle without touching the clutch. It's sweet and doesn't require an air tank, on board air compressor or all the other parts required when using an air shifter. Ok, now be sure you travel the entire 1/4 mile in a straight line and don't wander around covering more ground while the clocks are ticking away! Never cross the center line if you do, you lose.
YOU ARE ON A GOOD PASS, DON'T BLOW IT NOW!
6. TOP END MPH AND DE-ACCELERATION
Making a stupid mistake at speeds may be hazardous to your health. Accelerate past the last MPH timing lights. Slowly and smoothly roll off the throttle while still in a slightly tucked in position. Once you've slowed to a comfortable speed apply light even braking. Some tracks have bumpy shut off areas, so don't grab a big handful of front brake. Warning! While still on the gas, if you hit something or develop a speed wobble, also never grab the brakes, front or rear. Keep your arms rigid with a tight grip and pull in the clutch and ride it out. Go back to the pits and change your underwear. One more thing, once you reach the turn off road quickly exit, clear off the track for safety reasons.
Well, now go out and practice. Remember, CONCENTRATE ON BEING SMOOTH AND PRECISE. You may also want to have a friend video you so you can see your mistake. Compare your video to my instructions. I always used a video at my school and let the students review them every few runs. It really helps the learning curve.
Have Fun and Be Safe!
Yours truly,
Dale Walker , Holeshot Performance
